I've been to Venice quite a bit lately. Last Sunday I went with my husband to have lunch with Mauro on his boat Eolo on the island of Certosa.
 We decided to walk instead of taking the vaporetto, and we ended up in Piazza San Marco at noon when they were having the biggest event of the year- connected with Carnicvale: When the “girl/angel" flies down from the bell tower into the Piazza. But this year the angel was male— and black! The rapper Coolio! In the middle of this spectacle we found ourselves literally "stuck” in the hoards of people and had to wait at least 15 minutes before we could physically move.
 We hopped on a vaporetto to Certosa and walked through the amazing park to his boat, where we met two of Mauro's friends. Sergio is a wine dealer and he hit it off with my husband immediately. Marta was lots of fun and we ate drank and laughed away the afternoon. Mauro cooked a risotto with radicchio and dark beer, then we had wild boar- so tender it was unbelievable. As you might know by now, I am a serious foodie, and it’s so nice to have a meal with people that really appreciate it. Mauro's boat is compact but he only uses the finest silver, china plates and the best blown glasses for his wine, and you know what? It really DOES make a difference. We had such a good time that our new friends us to their house next Sunday, near San Marco and we immediately said YES! A meal on Mauro's boat always puts me in a happy frame of mind. Certosa is so removed from the rest of Venice, so peaceful and quiet…. There are some important plans for this special island, and I am witness to the little changes each time I visit. Luckily the changes are respectful to the area. The island’s site is called ventodivenezia.
 I spent Tuesday and Wednesday in Venice, staying in an over the top glamour hotel right across from the Rialto fish market. What a view! On Tuesday night I had the grand privilege to see St. Mark's by night - only allowed by a few people. They turn out all the lights and you are in complete darkness. Then, little by little the lights come on and you are astounded by the gold mosaics overhead. I was breathless. I also discovered a restaurant to die for… exposed brick walls, cozy, su-perb food (I went with Mauro and if he likes it…..) Not cheap, but not unbearably expensive either. And the owner's wife is Texan!
I saw an art exhibit of Paolo Spiga at Cà Pisani hotel and it was….. well more about that in a separate blog.
I also met Mr. Cosulich on Wednesday, who just opened a hotel in a quiet area of Venice behind the Zattere and whose grandpa owned a shipping line that at one time had four ships sailing in four different seas. He promised to introduce me to his dad who is 87 and has written 6 books!
I have been to Venice at least a hundred times, and I know it, yet still don't know it. It's that mystery that it holds for everyone that makes it so beguiling. It's so much more than Piazza San Marco and a gondola ride. If you are truly interested, someone will talk to you, and little by little you learn Venice's secrets, but this old dowager doesn't give it away easily. Thank goodness.
Carla
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